ANDRES KRAAS ⟩ Such archaic transport connections put us back in time

Latvian passenger train operator Vivi's train was already waiting for the Estonian «carrot» in Valga. However, having to change trains felt like jumping back a century. Photo: Richard Särk

• Cooperation between the Baltic states in train services leaves to be desired.
• 30 years ago, they could do things better.
• Instead of progress, we can talk about regress.

It remains incomprehensible how some politicians and public figures were able to hail the launch of the Tallinn-Vilnius train service on Epiphany Day as a triumph of cooperation between the Baltic states, historian Andres Kraas (Isamaa) writes.

Was it perhaps due to the need to have so-called positive news to divert people's attention from the colossal tax increases? Actually, no new train line was opened. Trains have been running from Tallinn to Valga for at least 130 years, and transferring to the Riga train in Valga has also been an option without any major issues for a long time, just as the onward journey from Riga to Vilnius by the next train.

The fact that in the 21st century, after decades of yammering, it is finally possible to get from Tallinn to Vilnius in 11 hours with three commuter trains and two transfers is more of a pitiful disgrace than a great achievement. Such a 60 km/h rattling train takes us back to the 19th century and vividly speaks of the almost non-existent unity of the Baltic states – neighbors' trains are not allowed on each other's territory, and each other's ticketing systems are not trusted.

If it is not possible to buy a direct ticket from Tallinn to Vilnius, and passengers have to change trains several times and purchase a new ticket in each country, then this is one of the most hypocritical claims, not only regarding the direct connection between the Baltic capitals but also regarding the cooperation between the countries. Unfortunately, this was the case in 1939, when the countries were unable to jointly stand up to the Soviet aggression, and it is still the case today, when, in addition to not being able to agree on a train service that would actually connect Tallinn, Riga, and Vilnius, they are unable to agree on the route and completion of the Rail Baltic.

What makes today's train parody particularly ironic is the fact that in the spring of 1993, Estonian Railways, in cooperation with Latvia and Lithuania, managed to launch the Baltic Express, which ran directly from Tallinn through Riga and Kaunas to the Polish border, where it was possible to transfer to a train to Warsaw. The wagons were not commuter train wagons, but decent 1st and 2nd class sleeping cars, stylishly and eye-catchingly designed. Of course, the train also included a cozy restaurant car. The entire service was top-notch. The high-speed Baltic Express only stopped in Tallinn, Tartu, Valga, Riga, and at the station of Šeštokai on the Latvian-Lithuanian border, from where the train continued directly to Warsaw, and so every day, for about five years.

It should be noted that in addition to the Baltic Express, it was also possible to travel directly from Tallinn to Vilnius and Riga without changing trains. I know exactly what I am talking about, as I was working at the passenger transport department of Estonian Railways at the time and was part of the team that was engaged in the launch of the Baltic Express. The situation back then was significantly more complicated than it is now, as there were still border controls on the borders between the Baltic states. However, all things worked out and the borders of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania were crossed without the express train having to stop, with border control taking place on the train.

It is with horror that one must acknowledge that, after many decades of development, there has been a significant regress rather than progress in the rail services connecting the Baltic states.

For the record, the original Baltic Express was put in operation about a hundred years ago and used to run from Tallinn to Riga and from there via Lithuania's then capital Kaunas to Warsaw, and then directly to Berlin, where you could change trains to other European countries. Between the two world wars, the Baltic Express was very popular, especially among politicians, businessmen, cultural figures, sportsmen and sportswomen, as well as tourists from Estonia and the other Baltic states. My grandmother used the train several times, mainly to get to Paris. I remember her praising the comfort of the train.

The Baltic Express that was launched after Estonia regained its independence tried to follow the concept of this historic train and was even named after it.

It looks all the more ironic that today passengers have to struggle three times to get from one local train to another with their luggage. Additionally, every traveler on the 11-hour journey must also bring their own food, as no meals are served on the trains originally intended for commutes, and the transfer stops are too brief to grab a snack at the stations.

It remains a mystery why all these previous experiences were not used, but instead, out of one's own wisdom and with taxpayers' money, some kind of stone-age rail service was invented, while there are plenty of much faster, more comfortable and cheaper ways to travel between Tallinn, Riga and Vilnius. It is therefore unlikely that this archaic slow ride train will win the hearts of passengers and that this rail line will ever pay for itself.

It is with horror that one must acknowledge that, after many decades of development, there has been a significant regress rather than progress in the rail services connecting the Baltic states, which also serves as a striking illustration of the current cooperation between the countries. Fortunately, there are also much more positive examples of Baltic unity, such as the Baltic Way and military cooperation, but there could be many more, including in terms of creating better and more modern transport connections.