Estonian shoe and boot art is rarity. But this is precisely what Karin Kallas’ and Erik Past’s little design studio, Stuudio Nahk, is dedicated to do: making super foot-friendly footwear.
Boot gourmet, Estonian style
18th February 2013, 13:36
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In less than a year, Stuudio Nahk has secured itself a little fan club, rejoices leather designer Karin Kallas.
And though her work, both elegant and robust, did make it all the way to Berlin Fashion Week – completing Kätlin Kaljuvee’s garments – she still thinks it the main feat that, as tiny doers, they are still around at all.
She shows black and tall spring/autumn boots of hairy pony skin, which seem to be the top hit right now. Great looks is not, however, the sole reason of pony skin being in demand – it also resists dirt and water, Ideal, according to Ms Kallas, for Estonian weather.
The more so that in studio, pony – as all other expensive skins – is treated for top weather resistance, prior becoming boot or shoe. Mostly, pig, cow and goat skin is used, coming from Italy. They’ve tried fish – which proved too stiff.
«Indeed, genuine leather is our main trump,» admits Ms Kallas.
Everything is genuine leather – finishing, insides, soles. Making them comfortable and elastic, allowing feet to move freely. And breathe easy.
The latter treat is especially appreciated by the designer: having usually worn shoes of her own making, she is currently testing cheap artificial leather boots for Master’s thesis of Academy of Arts. «At least in winter, these make feet unpleasantly wet,» she remarks.
When it comes to design, the wide-topped boots with stings are best so far, she thinks. These can be tightened around the leg, tying the strings as a ballerina. These are highly valued, also.
Sure, Ms Kallas has been into shoes as well – both low, high heeled, and «platforms». Indeed, she did kick off with shoes, low black ones, three years ago. And there are more shoes to come. In spring, and in much richer colour assortment than the wintry-booty blacks, browns and beiges.
And even though the anatomy of feet has always been close to the designer’s heart, the spring collection promises to be ever more comfortable. Considering, for instance, that an Estonian foot is, as a rule, wider than that of a southerner. Or that, in order for a foot not to be distorted, the shoe must be correctly supported.
«Out boots do come with a wider last, leaving the foot and toes some wiggle room. And the wide top fits all,» Ms Kallas points out.
Granted, all this far-above-average comfort does not come cheap. A pair of boots starts at €200. However, there are some more frugal items available to look original – like the studio’s simple and spacey handbags and straps; these are hot stuff at the moment.